The star of the show! If you are firing with a torch, make sure you select torch fireable clays (links below), these would be fine (999) silver clays. If you have a kiln, you can browse other silver clay types too, such as sterling or 950 silver clay! Different brands can have different shrinkage rates - choose the one that suits your needs!

This is a game changer for storing silver clay! If not stored well, it can dry completely. This little thing will keep it in good shape for ages. Wet the sponges, squeeze excess out, wrap your clay in some cling film and pop it in. Shop or try to make your own!

To cut your silver clay into shapes. A regular snap off blade will work too, but those craft knifes are great for precision!

You will need these to roll out your clay and to make 'clay snakes'. These are the bases of your designs.

They will help you shape and sculpt your clay! They come in different shapes and sizes, having a set it helpful for every occasion

A couple thin brushes will help you shape clay, lay clay paste to attach parts and brush water on it to prevent it drying too fast. Cheap ones will do!

Use this when your silver clay piece is dry, before firing. Helps remove scratches and imperfections, shape your design with ease and pre-polish before firing so final creation is super shiny!

Don't get scared! This is why you need it: when sanding dry clay (e.g. to smooth it out), there will be some dust, and like any dust, you don't want to breathe it in! A respirator is comfy and reusable. But at the very least, pls use a dust mask, but a respirator is better and more convenient!

If using torch-fireable silver clay, you can use a torch to fire it. A regular butane torch from your local DIY or a hardware store will do the trick! Otherwise you can shop torch lighter below

Get whatever is easiest for you to find – a soldering block, fibre brick, or firebrick (like the ones used in pizza ovens). Suitable materials are: ceramic fiber block, vermiculite fibre brick, or soldering block. Sometimes it will say what temperature they are rated to withstand, 1200C/2000F is a safe bet! You can fire the clay piece directly on them. Make sure what’s underneath and around is not flammable. DO YOUR RESEARCH depending on your space for the safest way to do this. TEST FIRST with your torch for a minute just to make sure all is good!

There are two ways to polish: polishing papers OR a rotary tool + radial disks. The rotary tool will get you a better polish and will be handy for drilling dry clay or even remodelling after firing when it becomes silver. Radial disks are great for polishing - they get into tiny details and do not need a polishing compound. You will need several grits - a coarse, medium, and fine. Use them in that order!

Only if you are planning to make rings! NOTE: clay shrinks by volume so make the ring 2 – 4 sizes bigger than desired (thin dainty designs will shrink less than chunky ones). Use a strip of baking/parchment paper secured with a small piece of tape. Wrap it around the desired size on the mandrel and place your clay on top of this base. This way you can take the ring off easily once it’s dry!

Yep, those regular playing cards you have gathering dust in a drawer. Use them to control clay thickness when rolling it out. Just place equal stacks on either side of your clay and roll with a rolling pin. The cards will act as a stopper for your rolling pin, making sure the thickness is consistent and exact!

You probably have this at home! This can be used as a working surface because the clay does not stick to it. Alternatively, you can secure a strip of baking paper around your mandrel with a piece of tape to build your rings on without them sticking.

Grab it from your kitchen! This is to wrap the clay you are not using, otherwise it will dry out! If using a clay hydrator, wrap you clay loosely in a small piece of cling film and place it inside.